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Susan Marshall

Agency of Play

Website / Social Media: www.susanmarshall.info

“HOW IS YOUR COSTUME AGENTIVE?”

The Insubordinate Costumes subvert and destabilise the normal hierarchies of the theatre by placing costume as the point of departure for a performance.

BIOGRAPHY

Susan Marshall is professor of 20th Century Fashion in the Fashion Institute of Technology (New York) Department at Milan Polytechnic and lectures on the Fashion Archive and Heritage Management course at AFOL Moda Milan. She is the costume designer for the prison theatre company San Vittore Globe Theatre and is undertaking a practice-based PhD at Goldsmiths University of London, in the Theatre and Performance department, with a thesis on Insubordinate Costume exploring the pivotal role of scenographic costume in performance and the fundamental importance of play in the performers’ creative approach to the costumes.

TITLE: Insubordinate Costume

Defiant, rebellious and unruly, Insubordinate Costume is a protagonist; it is not dictated to by a narrative requirement of the text, it does not bow down to the demands of a director or choreographer, nor is it defined by practicalities.

My research is located within the context of historical and contemporary examples of performance-defining costume which include, among others, Loie Fuller, Oskar Schlemmer and Leigh Bowery, as well as more recent examples that illustrate the blurring of boundaries between the disciplines of fashion, performance and theatre in the 21st century.

The flat-pack modular pieces I created for my Insubordinate Costume research are simple repetitive shapes that can be assembled to create various three-dimensional forms, in much the same way as children’s construction toys.

Over the last two years, different performers have been invited to construct and play with the modular costumes in order to produce a final performance. The rule of play is essential to the approach to the costumes, both in the playful essence of the costume and in the way the body interacts and plays with it. Although the modular pieces are always the same, the resulting sculptural forms created by each performer have always been unique, as have their performances.

IMAGE CAPTIONS & CREDITS

01
Susan Marshall, Insubordinate Costume – Mixed Modules, 2020, handmade paper, washable paper, split pins, string
Workshop with MA Performance Makers, Goldsmiths University
Foto: Susan Marshall

02
Susan Marshall, Insubordinate Costume – Crinolines, 2019, calico, nylon boning
Workshop with MA Performance Makers, Goldsmiths University
Foto: Susan Marshall

03
Susan Marshall, Insubordinate Costume – Caterpillar, 2020, calico, steel boning
Performance of Alice in Wonderland with Tilde Knudsen of Teater Asterions Hus, Copenhagen
Foto: Emile Carlsen

04
Susan Marshall, Insubordinate Costume – Walrus, 2020, calico, nylon and steel boning Performance of Alice in Wonderland with Tilde Knudsen of Teater Asterions Hus, Copenhagen Foto: Emile Carlsen

05
Susan Marshall, Insubordinate Costume – Triangles, 2020, washable paper, split pins Performance development for Alice in Wonderland with Tilde Knudsen of Teater Asterions Hus, Copenhagen
Foto: Susan Marshall

06
Susan Marshall, Insubordinate Costume Workshop, 2019 & 2020, video, Goldsmiths MA Performance Makers, 4:32
DOP: Vashish Soobah
Music: Koen Egberts

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