Emily Collett
Identity Agency
Website / Social Media: www.emilycollett.com
www.forthpersona.wixsite.com/costume
“HOW IS YOUR COSTUME AGENTIVE?”
This exhibition suggested that archived costume becomes agentive in its own right, by acquiring a ‘fourth persona’ when entering an archive; that of the collective identity of the society from within which the costume was created (on top of the embodied private, public and professional personas of the individual/s who wore the costume).
BIOGRAPHY
Emily Collett is a set and costume designer and educator whose practice comprises theatre, dance, film, television, and costume research. Emily was nominated for a Green Room Award for Dream Home, Northcote Town Hall 2015, and has received grants from the Ian Potter Cultural Trust and ArtStart. Recent design credits include Control, Red Stitch Actor’s Theatre, 2019; Wild Cherries, La Mama Courthouse, 2019; Whale, Northcote Town Hall, 2019; and A Little Night Music, Watch This, 2018.
A tutor in design and PhD candidate at the University of Melbourne, her research focuses on the topic of costume for performance as a cultural marker, specifically in relation to Australian identity.
TITLE: The Fourth Persona: Archaeology of Costume (an experimental exhibition)
Costume as a cultural marker: How does archived performance costume indicate notions of national identity?
When a performance costume ceases to be used as a tool for performance and enters an archive, it acquires a ‘fourth persona’. On top of the private, public and professional identities a single costume represents of the individual/s who wore it; an archived costume also then acquires a collective identity – that of the society from within which the costume was created.
The costume tells multiple stories of people, time and place, and as such, is a valuable research tool to better understand the nuanced identity of a collective of humans.
Can a collection of archived costumes, then, inform notions of a greater collective, or ‘national’, identity?
How can archived costume be exhibited in a way that allows communication of these multiple histories, and enable an audience to gain a sense of something greater than just the individual who wore it?
Held in July 2019 in the Costume Workroom at the Victorian College of the Arts, University of Melbourne, this experimental exhibition aimed to test the ways in which these questions could be answered by placing archived costume at the centre of enquiry as a cultural marker.
IMAGE CAPTIONS & CREDITS
01
Entrance to, and beginning of, the exhibition, including Costumes for: Rites
Characters: Assorted elements (wind, earth, fire, water)
Worn by: Artists of Bangarra Dance Theatre and The Australian Ballet
Company: Bangarra Dance Theatre and The Australian Ballet
Designer: Jennifer Irwin
Year premiered in Australia: 1997
Costume location: The Australian Ballet Production Centre, downstairs
Full costumes consist of: multiple costumes feature for each of the six sections of the dance work
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/rites-1
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
02
Costumes for: The Display
Characters: The Female, Women of the chorus, The Outsider
Worn by: Assorted artists of the Australian Ballet
Company: The Australian Ballet
Designer: Sidney Nolan
Year premiered in Australia: 2012
Costume location: The Australian Ballet Production Centre, downstairs
Full costumes consist of: Dresses with full skirts for the women, with hair ribbons tights and pointe shoes, trousers with long sleeved shirts for the men, with socks and soft jazz shoes.
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/the-display-1
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper.
Foto: Emily Collett
03
From left to right Unidentified costume for Sun Music
Men’s costumes for The Display 1983
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
04
Costumes for: Sun Music
Character: unidentified chorus
Worn by: unidentified chorus
Company: The Australian Ballet
Designer: Kenneth Rowell
Year premiered in Australia: 1968
Costume location: The Australian Ballet Production Centre
Full costumes consist of: Painted, dyed and detailed leotard with leggings, headpiece, ballet slippers; painted, dyed and detailed leotard with overskirt and tights; white body strapping; ballet slippers
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/sun-music-1
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
05
From left to right Earth Man costume from Rites
Chorus costumes from Sun Music
Women’s costumes from The Display 1983
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
06
Costume for: Le Coq d’or
Worn by: Irina Baronova
Company: Colonel de Basil’s Covent Garden Russian Ballet
Designer: Natalia Goncharova
Maker: Barbara Karinska
Year designed and made: 1937 (based on Goncharova and Serge Diaghilev’s original 1913 designs)
Year premiered in Australia: 1938
Costume location: The Australian Performing Arts Collection, Arts Centre
Full costume consists of: Trousers, Bodice, Overskirt, Belt and Headdress
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/le-coq-d-or
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
07
Costume for: Corroboree
Character: The Boy Initiate
Worn by: Beth Dean
Company: Beth Dean’s own company of dancers
Designer: Unknown
Maker: Unknown
Year premiered in Australia: 1954
Costume location: The National Museum of Australia
Full costume consists of: Leggings, Leotard, cotton bra, loincloth and headpiece
*A selection of costumes required guests to put on a pair of white cotton gloves prior to lifting the tissue and looking at the costume image.
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/corroboree
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
08
Costume for: Le Coq d’or
Worn by: Irina Baronova
Company: Colonel de Basil’s Covent Garden Russian Ballet
Designer: Natalia Goncharova
Maker: Barbara Karinska
Year designed and made: 1937 (based on Goncharova and Serge Diaghilev’s original 1913 designs)
Year premiered in Australia: 1938
Costume location: The Australian Performing Arts Collection, Arts Centre
Full costume consists of: Trousers, Bodice, Overskirt, Belt and Headdress
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/le-coq-d-or
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
09
Costume for: Melbourne Cup
Character: Tory Boy
Worn by: Heather Macrae
Company: The Australian Ballet
Designer: Ann Church
Maker: The Production Division of the Australian Elizabethan Theatre Trust
Year premiered in Australia: 1962
Costume location: The Australian performing Arts Collection
Full costume consists of: Tutu, Sash and Headpiece
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/melbourne-cup-1
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
10
Costume for: Corroboree
Character: The Boy Initiate
Worn by: Ronne Arnold
Company: Beth Dean’s own company of dancers
Designer: Based on the original designs by William Constable
Maker: Unknown
Year premiered in Australia: 1970
Costume location: The National Museum of Australia
Full costume consists of: Unitard, loincloth and headpiece
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/corroboree
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett.
11
Costume for: The Rite of Spring
Character: Chosen Maiden
Worn by: Monica Mason
Company: The Royal Ballet, Covent Garden
Designer: Sidney Nolan
Year premiered in England: 1962
Costume location: The Royal Opera House archives, Purfleet, London
Full costume consists of: Unitard, girdle, blood-stained menstruation bib which attaches at shoulders, raffia wig and ballet slippers
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/the-rite-of-spring-1
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
12
Costume for: The Rite of Spring
Character: Chosen One
Worn by: Wayne Eagling
Company: The Royal Ballet, Covent Garden
Designer: Sidney Nolan
Makers: Beverley Vas, Chadwick Bull and Harvey Tranah
Year premiered in England: 1987, potentially toured to Australia (records are not conclusive)
Costume location: The Royal Opera House archives, Purfleet, London
Full costume consists of: Unitard, raffia wig and ballet slippers.
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/the-rite-of-spring-1
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
13
Costume for: Corroboree
Character: The Boy Initiate
Worn by: Beth Dean
Company: Beth Dean’s own company of dancers
Designer: William Constable
Maker: Unknown
Year premiered in Australia: 1954
Costume location: The National Museum of Australia
Full costume consists of: Leggings, Leotard, cotton bra, loincloth and headpiece
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/corroboree
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
14
Costume for: Corroboree
Character: The Boy Initiate
Worn by: Beth Dean
Company: Beth Dean’s own company of dancers
Designer: William Constable
Maker: Unknown
Year premiered in Australia: 1954
Costume location: The National Museum of Australia
Full costume consists of: Leggings, Leotard, cotton bra, loincloth and headpiece
https://fourthpersona.wixsite.com/costume/corroboree
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
15
Before exiting the exhibition, all guests were asked to answer this question (hiding in a biscuit tin), by placing a button in either the ‘yes’ or ‘no’ jar.
Emily Collett, Fourth Persona Exhibition, 2019, printed image 1000 × 1414 mm on matte paper
Foto: Emily Collett
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